Winter 2020

Let’s get this out of the way: Portugal has just reported its first case of  Coronavirus. A doctor returning from a holiday in Italy is now hospitalized in Porto. I believe there is someone else, also up north,  under observation after returning from China. I don’t want to be glib about this, but so far feel there is very little concern here in Tavira, perhaps because it is a small town with few crowds. I haven’t seen anyone in a mask yet, so still feeling blessed to be wintering in such a lovely part of Portugal. Personally I feel the way the media is reporting on the world situation, tends to increase a feeling of panic. I am consulting official websites for daily updates on the situation in Portugal, and where I am going next - to Edinburgh and then Crete. So far, fingers, eyes and knees crossed, hands washed often, I don’t feel in any danger whatever.  The flowers are blooming everywhere in a blaze of colors. Orange and almond blossoms fill the air with lovel...

Thought this week I’ve first chat about the delicious food I’ve been enjoying.  The area is renown for its fish and seafood.  The market must have 10 different fish mongers to choose  from  and look  at the local grocery store display..this is about half the counter. Lots of choice...                                                                                                                                               The fishers leave usually late afternoon and return very early in the morning. So early that I have yet to see the huge barrels of Polvo (octopus) hauled in at the tiny vill...

A month in Tavira and I thought it may be time to see the beach. Mid February didn’t deter me at all and a quick check showed the usual sunny sky and  temperature edging close to 18 at ten am. So I  grabbed my water bottle,  an apple, suntan lotion and since the ferry service is almost outside my door I ambled over to the ticket booth and purchased a return ticket for 2.20€ . This time of the year, there is only one boat per hour and the last ferry returns to Tavira at 4:15  So at exactly 10:40 as scheduled, we backed away from the dock, then turning mid river, the captain headed for the sea. Today’s beach haul The Gilao river is quite narrow so a really pleasant ferry boat ride where you can see all the on-shore sights as well. The boat was filled with about 50 passengers and the  journey down stream takes about 15 minutes with one stop.  A good strong swimmer could probably beat that time!  We unloaded quickly and walked through a pathway and so...

  Mac and I first came to Portugal in 1984, thirty six years ago. We stayed in Vilamoura on the Algarve coast, and met a wonderful English family I still keep in touch with (hi Kay!). But soon realized in order to see the real country we would need to get away from the beaches and golf courses. So we headed to the market in Loule, had chicken peri peri in San Brás, that was so good we ate there 4 times that week. One day we visited a tiny village called Estoi  about a half hour north of Faro. We arrived at siesta time with only a few half awake locals at the cafe in the square. The rest of the place was shuttered tight.  We parked the car and waved cheerfully at the snoozers. We heard the deafening gong of a church bell and headed aimlessly up a steep cobbled stairway, hoping some form of life might by some miracle be waiting. Instead we found ourselves heading down a narrow laneway and soon we were peering through a rusted old iron gate, half off its hinges. Inside was ...